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Author Topic: End of Log Sealing  (Read 1371 times)

Offline JMS

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End of Log Sealing
« on: July 22, 2013, 10:59:47 AM »
I'd like to hear the success from others in end of log sealing to avoid end splits or end checks in the raw material.


Offline Neissa G

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Re: End of Log Sealing
« Reply #1 on: November 20, 2013, 08:23:13 AM »
I have the same question...Does anyone have examples?

Offline MichaelM

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Re: End of Log Sealing
« Reply #2 on: November 20, 2013, 10:37:44 AM »
This is not a common practice for softwoods.  The value of the product and defect prevented has to justify the cost of sealing.

It wasn't clear what you had in mind on timing.  Endsealing needs to be done immediately after felling to be effective (or immedieately after any transverse cut is made) to be successful.  The ends of lumber units are sometimes sprayed after trimming in the sawmill.  If a few hours elapse the effectiveness goes down because checks have a chance to get started.  If applied a day or three after cutting, the coating will not be very effective.  There's some literature out there to support this and I could probably dig it up, but this is essentially what it says.

You might check with one of the coating companies, such as AnchorSeal, for more information on how to use the coatings.

By the way, most of these coatings are wax based and in the hardwood industry are left on (no trim in the sawmill) during kiln drying to prevent end checks.  The wax melts at softwood temperatures making them less effective in the kiln.

Offline HencoV

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Re: End of Log Sealing
« Reply #3 on: April 13, 2014, 10:49:02 PM »
I have recently started up my micro sawmill, where I cut ± 30m3 per month of Euc. saligna, and dry it in my Hybrid kiln. Saligna is known to end split within hours to days after felling. I started experimenting with end coats with great success. I started with roof sealer paint directly after felling. It reduced the number of end splits forming, and exiting splits did not increase in size very quickly. I found roof sealer paint to be a bit expensive for the job, and are currently using a mix of cheap contractor PVA and tile adhesive in a ratio of 20litre PVA : 500ml tile adhesive. This works out about 1/3 the price of roof sealer, and looks like it is working.

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